Pastificio Artigiano Fabbri in 'Gambero Rosso

Il Pastificio Artigiano Fabbri all’interno del “Gambero Rosso”

Article about Fabbri pasta made with the ancient wheat variety 'Cappelli' in the gastronomic monthly magazine 'Gambero Rosso'

'Gambero Rosso' – No. 188, Year 16 – September 2007 – L’altra Pasta (Download the original article here)


Excerpt from the article:

"Passion and tradition in the form of pasta. In over a century of activity and across four generations, from great-grandfather Giovanni to great-grandson Giovanni, Pastificio Fabbri has always had one goal in mind: to make macaroni in an artisanal way. The machinery dates back to the pre-automation era, with the most modern piece being a packaging machine from the late 1960s, and the press is half a century old. The drying rooms, where the pasta is dried at 38-40 degrees, are made of wood, just as they were at the beginning of the 20th century. Promotion and sales have also remained artisanal. The Fabbris do not advertise, and they have no sales representatives or distributors. The youngest Giovanni handles administration, sales, and public relations. And he 'speaks' to the pasta and semolina. He has been described as 'the man who whispers to wheat.' This is because he also oversees the raw materials, choosing traditional varieties that are grown the old-fashioned way.

The flagship product of the pasta factory, since 1893 located on Piazza Emilio Landi in the center of Strada in Chianti, is made with Senatore Cappelli – an ancient variety of wheat that grows as tall as a man, with beautiful light-colored ears and long black awns – which Fabbri grows organically in the Val d’Orcia. 'It’s a Cappelli developed by the University of Florence,' Giovanni explains in his charming Tuscan accent, 'grown the way it was long ago in our area, under olive trees and with the crop rotation technique.'

We are now testing pasta production with Cappelli from the biodynamic farm San Cristoforo in San Gimignano, stone-ground at a mill in Torgiano.' The formidable 'toscani spaghettoni,' over 3 millimeters in diameter and requiring 16-18 minutes of cooking, are made from Senatore Cappelli and hand-packed in yellow straw paper, labeled 'Il Pastaio Artigiano del Chianti,' as are the Caserecce from the Giovanni Fabbri line. Additionally, there are the Straccetti made for Renzo Marinai from the San Martino a Cecione estate: 'The first in Chianti Gallo Nero to replant Cappelli. For four years now, we’ve been threshing the wheat in the traditional way at the end of July.'

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